Cushion cut and princess cut are the two most popular square-ish diamond shapes in UK engagement rings, but they look and behave very differently on the finger. In short: princess cut is sharper, more modern, and more brilliant edge-to-edge, while cushion cut is softer, more romantic, and reads slightly larger for its weight. The right choice usually comes down to your partner's style — clean and contemporary, or warm and vintage-leaning — and how you want the ring to sit alongside a wedding band later.
This guide compares both cuts on shape, sparkle, size perception, setting styles, price, and durability, then explains how each is treated in a bespoke engagement ring at Diamond Hub.
What is a cushion cut diamond?
A cushion cut is a square or slightly rectangular diamond with rounded corners, resembling a pillow — hence the name. Modern cushion cuts typically have 58 to 64 facets and come in two main styles:
- Cushion brilliant: larger, more open facets that create bold flashes of light.
- Cushion modified brilliant ("crushed ice"): smaller facets that create a shimmering, granular sparkle.
Cushion cuts have a long history in fine jewellery. The shape evolved from the "old mine cut" of the 18th and 19th centuries, which is why cushion diamonds often feel vintage, romantic, and slightly warmer in character than a modern square cut.
What is a princess cut diamond?
A princess cut is a square (or occasionally rectangular) diamond with sharp, uncut corners and a brilliant facet arrangement. It usually has 57 or 58 facets and is one of the most brilliant fancy cuts on the market, second only to a round brilliant in overall light return.
The princess cut was developed in the 1960s and 1970s and is very much a modern shape. It looks clean, geometric, and contemporary — a strong match for minimalist settings and straight-lined wedding bands.
Cushion cut vs princess cut at a glance
| Feature | Cushion cut | Princess cut |
|---|---|---|
| Shape | Square/rectangular with rounded corners | Square/rectangular with sharp corners |
| Sparkle style | Soft, romantic, "crushed ice" or big flashes | Bright, crisp, uniform brilliance |
| Character | Vintage-leaning, warm | Modern, geometric, clean |
| Faces up | Slightly larger for the carat | Slightly smaller for the carat |
| Best settings | Halo, hidden halo, pavé, vintage-inspired | Solitaire, four-prong, channel, cathedral |
| Durability | High — no exposed sharp corners | High, but corners need protection |
| Typical price per carat | Slightly higher | Slightly lower for equivalent quality |
| Suits | Romantic, classic, or vintage-loving buyers | Modern, minimalist, structured style |
Sparkle and light performance
Both shapes are brilliant cuts, meaning they are faceted for maximum light return rather than the long, mirror-like flashes of a step cut (like emerald or Asscher). But the character of that sparkle is quite different.
Cushion cut produces a softer, more diffused sparkle. Modified cushions in particular create the "crushed ice" effect — hundreds of tiny flashes rather than a few big ones. This looks lush and romantic under warm indoor lighting, which is exactly why cushions read so beautifully in candlelight, restaurants, and low-light photography.
Princess cut produces sharper, brighter, more uniform brilliance. Its facets fire like a mini round brilliant, which means it holds its sparkle exceptionally well under both natural and artificial light. If your partner wants a stone that visibly sparkles from across the room, princess cut is often the more punchy choice.
Which one looks bigger?
For the same carat weight, a cushion cut generally looks larger than a princess cut. That is because cushion cuts tend to be shallower with a broader table (the flat top surface), so more of the diamond's weight sits face-up. Princess cuts hold more of their weight in depth, which means a 1.00ct princess often looks slightly smaller than a 1.00ct cushion, even though the carat weight is identical.
If maximising visual size is a priority — and for many UK buyers it is — cushion cut is often the more generous option pound-for-pound.
Setting styles: what each shape does best
The right setting can transform how either diamond reads on the hand.
Cushion cut — settings that flatter it
- Halo and hidden halo: A halo of pavé diamonds around a cushion boosts perceived size and adds vintage warmth. A hidden halo is a modern twist that keeps the cushion looking clean from above.
- Pavé shoulders: A cushion on a pavé band feels romantic and detailed — a favourite among clients drawn to Art Deco or vintage-inspired design.
- Solitaire with a soft basket: For a cleaner look, a cushion in a delicate four-claw setting shows off the pillow silhouette without distraction.
Princess cut — settings that flatter it
- Four-prong solitaire: The classic choice. Prongs at each corner protect the sharp points and let the diamond do the talking.
- Cathedral solitaire: Lifts the princess off the band, giving it presence without adding fussiness.
- Channel or bar-set diamond band: Straight-line accent stones mirror the princess's geometry.
- Pavé straight-edge shoulders: For buyers who want more sparkle without softening the ring's structure.
Cushion cuts naturally suit softer, more curved designs. Princess cuts naturally suit straight lines. That single insight helps a lot when choosing a setting.
Durability considerations
Both cuts are durable enough for daily wear when set correctly, but they carry different risks.
- Princess cut corners are the weakest point. Under a hard knock, an unprotected corner can chip. A well-designed setting always covers those four corners with prongs — this is a non-negotiable in a bespoke build.
- Cushion cut has rounded corners, so it has no obvious weak point. It is one of the most forgiving fancy shapes for an active lifestyle.
If your partner works with their hands, exercises heavily, or simply prefers not to think about their ring, cushion cut is the lower-maintenance shape. A well-set princess cut is still perfectly wearable — the setting is what makes the difference.
Price: is cushion or princess more expensive?
For equivalent quality (similar carat, colour, clarity and cut grade), princess cut is usually a little cheaper per carat than cushion cut. Two reasons drive this:
- Princess cuts retain more of the original rough diamond during cutting, which reduces waste and cost.
- Cushion cuts are in strong demand, particularly in vintage-inspired and celebrity-influenced designs, which supports their price.
Roughly, a princess cut can be 10–15% less expensive than a cushion cut of similar spec, though this varies by the exact stone. If you're working to a specific budget and want to prioritise carat weight, princess cut can stretch further. If you want the softer, romantic look, that small premium on a cushion is often worth it.
For a full breakdown of how much UK buyers are typically spending, see our guide on how much to spend on an engagement ring.
Colour and clarity: what to prioritise
Because their facet patterns behave differently, cushion and princess cuts show colour and inclusions differently too.
- Cushion cut holds colour more than a princess cut. If you're aiming for an icy white look, we usually recommend G colour or higher. Softer G–H tones still look beautiful set in yellow or rose gold.
- Princess cut also shows colour in its corners, but its brilliance masks warmth better than a cushion. G–H is usually a safe range in platinum or white gold.
- On clarity, both cuts can carry SI1 stones well because their brilliance camouflages small inclusions. A well-selected VS2 or SI1 is often the smart-money choice for both shapes.
If you want to understand these grades in more depth, our diamond colour guide and diamond clarity guide walk through each grade properly.
Always insist on a certified diamond from a recognised laboratory such as GIA or IGI — the certificate is your guarantee of what you're paying for.
Wedding band pairing
Both shapes pair well with a range of wedding bands, but they suit different silhouettes.
- Cushion cut pairs naturally with curved, contoured, or shaped bands that echo its rounded corners. A plain rounded band also works beautifully.
- Princess cut pairs best with flat, straight-edged bands — including channel-set diamond bands or a slim platinum wedding band that mirrors the diamond's clean edges.
If your partner has already hinted at a wedding band style, that can quietly tip the decision one way or the other.
Who each cut suits best
Choose a cushion cut if your partner:
- Loves vintage, Art Deco, or romantic design
- Wants a softer, more feminine silhouette
- Wants their ring to read larger for the carat
- Prefers warm, sparkling light rather than sharp brilliance
- Wears rings on an active hand and prefers a durable shape
Choose a princess cut if your partner:
- Prefers modern, clean, minimalist design
- Loves bright, crisp sparkle
- Wants a strong geometric look
- Plans to stack with straight-edged wedding bands
- Wants to maximise carat within budget
How Diamond Hub approaches cushion and princess cut engagement rings
Every ring we make at Diamond Hub is bespoke, which means we design around the diamond and the wearer rather than adapting a wearer to a standard piece. In practice, that changes a few things when working with these two shapes:
- Diamond sourcing: We hand-select cushion and princess cut diamonds against GIA or IGI certification, focusing on well-cut stones that face up bright and even. Two diamonds of the same paper spec can look very different — the sourcing step matters.
- Setting engineering: For princess cuts, we build corner protection into the setting so the diamond stays safe under everyday wear. For cushions, we design the head to sit low and flattering, without hiding the pillow silhouette.
- Proportions: Because cushions vary widely (square, elongated, cushion brilliant, crushed ice), we help clients choose the specific style that matches the look they're picturing — not just the shape name.
- Consultation: Every design starts with a private consultation, either at our showroom or online. Sketches, CAD renders and stone options are prepared before any commitment.
If you'd like to explore either shape in person, our bespoke engagement rings collection is a good starting point, and our team can walk you through certified diamond options at your appointment.
What to consider before buying
A few practical checks before you commit to either shape:
- Match the shape to the person, not the trend. Trending shapes come and go; a well-chosen shape suits your partner for a lifetime.
- Look at both cuts in person if you can. Photographs flatten sparkle. Cushion vs princess is a decision that often flips once you see them side by side.
- Think about the metal. White metals (platinum, 18ct white gold) amplify icy brilliance in both shapes. Yellow and rose gold soften the look and are especially beautiful with cushion cuts.
- Always buy certified. A GIA or IGI certificate confirms the cut quality and grading, which directly affects how the diamond performs.
- Design the setting around the diamond, not the other way round. This is where bespoke really pays off.
Thinking about your own ring?
We design and make every ring in-house, and you can see certified lab-grown and natural diamonds side by side in our Leicester or London showroom. A free 30-minute consultation — in person or on video — is the easiest place to start.
Browse engagement rings · how bespoke works · Leicester showroom
FAQ
Is cushion cut or princess cut better for engagement rings? Neither is objectively better — it depends on style. Cushion cut suits romantic, vintage-inspired, softer designs. Princess cut suits clean, modern, geometric designs. Both are durable enough for daily wear when set correctly.
Which looks bigger, cushion or princess cut? Cushion cut usually looks slightly bigger for the same carat weight because more of the diamond sits face-up. A 1.00ct cushion will typically read a touch larger than a 1.00ct princess.
Is cushion cut more expensive than princess cut? Yes, usually. For equivalent quality, cushion cut tends to be around 10–15% more expensive per carat because more rough diamond is lost during cutting and demand for cushion cuts remains strong.
Which cut sparkles more? Princess cut generally produces sharper, brighter sparkle. Cushion cut produces softer, more romantic sparkle — often described as "crushed ice". Both are brilliant cuts and both perform well under natural and artificial light.
Is princess cut still in style? Yes. Princess cut has stayed in demand because it offers a clean, modern look and strong brilliance at a slightly lower price per carat than round brilliant or cushion cut. It particularly suits minimalist and contemporary buyers.
Are cushion or princess cuts more durable? Cushion cuts have rounded corners, so no vulnerable points. Princess cuts have sharp corners that need to be protected by the setting. In a well-designed ring, both are fully suitable for everyday wear.
Can I get either cut as a bespoke ring at Diamond Hub? Yes. Both shapes are available as bespoke commissions, from certified diamond sourcing through to setting design, CAD renders and hand-finishing. Book a consultation to see options for your budget and style.
Bringing it together
Cushion cut and princess cut appeal to different buyers for good reason. If your partner leans romantic, vintage, or wants a diamond that reads soft and generous on the hand, cushion is usually the right answer. If they lean modern, structured, and want punchy brilliance in a clean silhouette, princess is likely to feel more them.
Whichever way you go, the quality of the diamond, the design of the setting, and the craftsmanship behind the ring will matter more than the shape itself. A well-made bespoke engagement ring in either cut will outlast trends and hold its beauty for decades.
If you'd like tailored advice on choosing between the two — or to see certified diamond options for your budget — book a private consultation with Diamond Hub. Our team designs bespoke engagement rings for clients across the UK from our Leicester studio, with London appointments also available on request.